Yours truly absolutely loves loves LOVES men. Delicious eye candy of the opposite sex in various states of dress (and undress) makes me *swoon*. Product development research on the men's floor at Barney's? You don't need to ask me twice. Want to look at ties and shoes at Saks? I'm your girl! Since I am engulfed in womenswear at the office 24/7, menswear is a welcomed reprieve. Watching marathon sessions of Jon Hamm suited up as Don Draper in Mad Men adds to my fixation. On my daily commute I am surrounded by dapper fellows as they make their way to the Financial District. Pocket squares and cuff links definitely catch my eye. Men may harsh on women for how many bags or shoes they have but men have their accoutrements as well. Recently I was shopping for a razor for my father's 73rd birthday. A whole new world of shaving instruments was introduced to me. The same applies to men's fashion- there is so much more for me to explore. One thing is for certain: I love a man in a suit.
Two gentlemen I know are tying the knot over the summer and have called upon me for advice on picking out their suits. Naturally I embraced the fashion challenge: Two men with different styles in two completely different climates. The following were a few simple tips I bestowed upon the grooms-to-be.
- Fabric weight: Do you want a suit you can wear in multiple situations? Are you looking for something weather-specific? Case in point: Groom #1 is getting married in sweltering heat at the height of summer. He chose a seersucker suit which is lightweight and breathable.
- Fit: Nice suits can require dropping some dough. Since you are making an investment, fit is of the utmost importance. Spring the extra cash for tailoring. It will be worth it. Trust me.
- Buy what you want: Groom #2 was vocal about wanting a grey (possibly pinstripe) suit. When he told me the salesperson tried to put him in a camel color, I told him to stick to his guns and buy what he wants. What the consumer may not know is there may be a surplus of this color on the salesfloor they are trying to get rid of. Trust your first instinct.
- Other design features to consider are lapels (notch vs. peak), vents (center vs. side) and the number of buttons on the jacket.
Since I, too, am constantly learning about the world of menswear, I sought some extra insight from a friend who is a menswear designer. The following are a few more tips for my Superstylin* gents:
- Think tropical wools/gabardines for summer and flannel/tweed for winter. For someone who doesn't have a suit, the best colors to start with are navy or grey. Well-made blazers are generally going to be heavier in terms of weight since there are additional components such as canvas interfacing, stay tape, interfacing in the sleeves and weights in the jacket (thank Chanel for that one).
- Find the smallest size you can wear and get the next size up. The most important thing is having a shoulder width that fits the shoulders snugly. Make sure the shoulder line doesn't come off their shoulder.
- When buying a suit, budget in how much it would cost for a tailor to adjust the sleeve length (so that the dress shirt is slightly peeking out), the break (which varies dependent upon body type), the waist width and maybe the sleeve diameter.
Happy suit shopping gentlemen!
{F/W 2010 Images via GQ.com}